Back on the Track:
Trekking Kokoda, April 2023
Three years and a pandemic has passed before the opportunity finally came for this great group to walk the Kokoda Track in a fast crossing that culminated in attending the Dawn Service at Bomana on ANZAC Day.
Leanne Ali, Dwayne, Mark, Colin & Travis were the first of the group to arrive, spending a leisurely day around the hotel, while waiting for Esther & Peter, Mark, Jack, & Jayce to arrive.
Chaperone in Training, Darcy also joined us on what was to become another memorable Kokoda crossing.
Not even a code brown in the pool could dampen the spirits as they prepared for their ultimate adventure.
“Not even a code brown in the pool could dampen the spirits”
There’s a saying in the Pacific Islands that “everything runs on island time”, and you always have to be prepared that things won’t go to plan.
The previous few weeks had seen domestic flight cancellations, so we were prepared that our adventure could be delayed further.
Excitement built as our flight to Popondetta was called & our plane departed on time. Luck may have been on our side as the Governor of Oro Province was sharing the plane with us, although soon after landing, the luck dissipated as our adventure became a trip of firsts.
While stalled at Popondetta, we accepted an invitation to the Governor’s house, where we received a history lesson from Governor Jaffa about Oro Province. Nothing but the royal treatment for this group as we heard first hand about the developing nation of PNG, the challenges and the progress they’ve made with health and education.
After a few hours delay, we set off in an escorted convoy to Kokoda where we got our first glimpses of life as it is in this remote land, and were even surprised by the splashes of cold water thrown by giggling children playing in the rivers that we passed.
"Nothing but the royal treatment for this group"
The real adventure began, after a quick visit to the Kokoda plateau, we walked under the arches to commence the 96 km trek.
Chasing the clock and the fading sun, we still had a long journey ahead of us, falling into rhythm as we walked to Hoi, and up to Deniki. It was so good to be back in my office, looking out over the Yodda Valley and sharing the banter that comes with each Kokoda crossing.
As we pressed onto our camp at Isurava Village, we found ourselves walking the last few hours in darkness… not the easiest thing to manage, but the cold shower was much appreciated by the time we made camp. Sleep came quickly after a very long day
Day 2… let’s start this again and tackle the long walk to Templetons.
Wandering along through the blanket of chokko vine, we made good time to the Isurava Battle site, where we heard of the courageous acts of those who fought on this site.
Darcy shared the heroic action of our VC recipient Bruce Kingsbury, before we all shared a special service together beside the pillars… Courage, Endurance, Mateship, Sacrifice.
It was hard to hold back tears as we learnt of what had occurred on this now tranquil site. After laying poppies and enjoying some quiet time to reflect, it was on to Cons Rock for a few more tears before continuing on with our trek.
With the sun shining, we continued on making the most of the weather to Eora Creek for lunch.
The going got tough from this point on, as the heavens opened up and we got a real taste of what our diggers would have experienced back in 1942.
Torrential rain brought a river of water down the track towards us. The challenge of ankle deep mud and a river of water delayed us and saw the group yet again walk into camp in darkness.
Wet, cold, covered in mud and arriving in darkness… another first for me.
Challenges come, but the camaraderie shown by everyone as the last of us arrived into camp was amazing and much appreciated.
"...the camaraderie shown by everyone as the last of us arrived into camp was amazing"
Surely our third day would be better right! Sun was up, moving at a good pace – even time for Darcy to head out to Myola with the group, while Pete took the shorter path to keep up with everyone.
The going was tough, the mud and the slippery terrain made walking difficult.
In another first, I managed to miss the turn off in the rain and add another 10km onto my day, while Darcy led the group into Naduri.
The wet conditions were taking a toll with injuries mounting, the pace slowing, and fatigue setting in. It was difficult to maintain our spirits, but the encouragement from everyone kept us moving.
Trevor had the opportunity to hand over a large quantity of school supplies to the Kavovo teachers which he had arranged through the support of schools in South Australia.
Together, the lads including Colin, Mark and Dave had chipped in to hire a local guide to carry the supplies in. The teachers spoke of the difficulties in obtaining supplies in remote regions and were grateful for the wipe boards and flash cards delivered.
Esther, Pete, Mark, Jack, Ali & Leanne also handed over books and student packs which was much appreciated.
The final leg of the day was from Naduri to Efogi. Ideal territory for Dwayne & Jayce to skip up the hill, and, you guessed it, another day walking into camp in the dark.
Imagine, the track from Lanamau to Efogi, complete darkness, ankle deep mud & fading torchlight. At least the rain held off and we managed to shower, eat together and dry our sodden boots by the fire.
A
glorious morning greeted us heading to Agulogo – a relatively seamless walk up to Brigade Hill where another tearful service was held, before a muddy slide down to Menari.
A highlight was a swim in the river before lunch. Fatigue, frustration, and pain were encroaching, with the thought that another night walk might be ahead.
The strain became too much for Pete, and the hard decision for an evacuation was decided…. a first for me to spend a night in a camp without my group, and without my gear.
A wee drop of Pete’s dads fine whisky was shared, before we went off to sleep wondering how the rest of the group were traveling. Fortunately, Darcy was there to step in and ensure the group kept going.
The chopper arrived early, taking Pete to medical care and returning me to the group at New Nauro.
More firsts as I avoided the swamp, and landed on a narrow strip along the Magulu Range.
Reconnected again, we enjoyed a dry day, a swim in Ofi Creek and an arrival into camp in daylight.
How sweet it was to sit together and watch the beautiful sunset from our Ioribaiwa campsite. We even had milo left to enjoy more mochas.
Every Kokoda adventure brings something new – this trek threw everything at us, with our last day walking being no different.
After leaving Goodwater, the heavens opened up again, delivering streams of water along the track, and leaving us so wet that there was no need to remove our boots as we crossed the Goldie River.
The rain and the challenges faced were soon forgotten as we finally reached Owers Corner & completed this epic journey together.
The journey didn’t end there as we celebrated dinner that night, and delivered a large supply of clothing and shoes to our local guide team that the group had taken to PNG.
Early to bed before another very early start to attend the dawn service at Bomana. What a way to end our adventure, watching the haunting mist surround the final resting place of those who had paid the ultimate sacrifice, listening to the bugle call, and visiting the grave of Leanne’s uncle together.
There are many reasons why Kokoda is on people’s bucket lists.
For some, they want to complete the trek for the physical challenge. For others, there is the desire to complete the Kokoda Track as a pilgrimage to honour the soldiers who fought in the Kokoda campaign in 1942.
Whatever the reasons, Kokoda has a way of changing us all. Whether your first or seventeenth time, it is ever changing and unpredictable. It throws challenges in all forms, and gives us the strength and resilience to adapt in so many ways.
Congratulations to all the group on achieving your dream. AMAZING
Exploring Papua New Guinea for over 20 years, No Roads Expeditions offers a variety of trips across Papua New Guinea.
Feel free to explore further below:
