Fuelled by breakfast, our Flores adventure truly begins with a scenic drive east towards Ruteng. For a couple of captivating hours, the road snakes through the evolving landscape before delivering us to Cancar (pronounced Chanchar). Our destination: Cara village, perched overlooking a sprawling valley. Here, we ascend a small hill to witness the mesmerizing spectacle of the spider web rice fields. Known locally as Lingko, this ingenious agricultural system sees land divvied amongst village families radiating outwards from a central point marked by a lodok pole. Strings extend, forming wedge-shaped moso that, following the contours of the land, create intricate web-like patterns – a testament to communal harmony and agricultural artistry. The panoramic views from the hilltop are simply breathtaking.

Post-lunch, our journey continues to Liang Bua, an hour outside Ruteng. This significant grotto, nestled off a winding side road through picturesque rice paddies and mountainous terrain, is the final resting place of Homo floresiensis, the diminutive “Hobbit” discovered in 2003. Our local guide leads us through the cave, including a smaller side chamber and the opening to a deep, inaccessible cavern, sharing the ongoing scientific debate surrounding their extinction. Is it the arrival of Homo Erectus, or some other unknown factor? The cave itself holds a palpable sense of history.

Our day concludes back in Ruteng at the welcoming Susteran Maria Berduka Cita convent, run by kind Sisters. The clean rooms and even the unexpected comfort of BBC on the TV provide a peaceful end to a day rich in cultural and historical discovery.

We continue eastwards onto more rugged mountain roads. Along the way, we stop at a small lake called Ranamese, offering sweeping views of the coastline. From there, we proceed to the seaside village of Lega Lapu, where we sample some Arak, or palm spirits. While you may have tasted Arak before, this brew is surprisingly good and actually quite drinkable.

From Lega Lapu, we head back into the mountains towards Bajawa. This is a great yet peculiar town, complete with bareback cowboys and a beautiful surrounding landscape. In the afternoon, we make our way to Soa, a natural hot spring located just outside of town. This is a perfect place to relax and soothe any aching muscles. Tonight, we dine in a timber restaurant called Lucas, which makes fantastic fried potatoes.

Overnight stay at Bajawa Roo Hotel. (B)

This is our last day of driving and possibly the most spectacular of them all. After an early breakfast, we head by car toward an amazingly beautiful valley near the Ngada village of Bena. However, Bena is where we end our 1.5-hour trek from Gurusina down in the valley. Our trek takes us along small paths back up the mountain, through several Ngada villages.

Ngada culture is based on the balance of the male and female. Houses and smaller structures are either characterized by a male or female spirit. Ngada culture is matrilineal, meaning that property ownership and clan names are passed down through the woman’s side. The men, however, have great influence in the day-to-day functions of the village. Ngada villages are welcoming and are fascinating and beautiful places to trek through.

We finish our hike in Bena, a large Ngada village overlooking the valley. Keep an eye out for small wooden houses and people sitting atop the homes in these villages.

From Bena, we continue on to Ende and then onto Moni. The road from Ende to Moni has to be some of the most beautiful on the planet, with sweeping valley views and dozens of waterfalls cascading in the distance. We arrive in Moni quite late, so dinner at the Eco Lodge is suggested.

Overnight Kelimutu Eco Lodge (B)

We rise early, around 4:30 am, to walk to the summit of Kelimutu. We can get a small breakfast hamper put together of banana pancakes, water, and a boiled egg to have on Kelimutu. The park’s car park is a 30-minute drive from Moni, and then from there, a fairly easy 30-minute walk to the top. If we are lucky, the cloud parts at sunrise, and the beautiful turquoise lakes of Kelimutu reveal themselves.

Kelimutu comprises three dormant volcanoes that have filled with water. Due to minerals being dispersed into the water, the lakes exhibit varying colors. The strange thing is that the lakes are so close to each other, yet they can display different hues such as red, blue, and black.

If the summit is shrouded in clouds (which is common) and you don’t see the lakes, don’t worry. We head back down to Moni with the possibility of a 2-hour walk through the fields to the Eco Lodge. We can shower and get another bite to eat there, watching the Kelimutu summit from your room, waiting for the cloud to clear. We can return to the summit in the afternoon, or if all else fails, we can go up again the next day.

We suggest dinner at the Eco Lodge and our personal favorite, Mori’s Moni chicken. (B)

This morning, assuming you have already seen Kelimutu, we go for another walk through the valley. We can even arrange for a horse ride through the villages at your own expense. We also visit the 10000 Rp market where every bunch of vegetables is 10000 Rp. The stall next door sells for the same price, so the price is not negotiable. The fruit and vegetables are displayed beautifully, and it is a nice place to wander.

From there, we head down to Ende for your flight back to Bali. (B)